steveb leatherworks: the blather

Many of my customers come to me for custom work after previously having had a “not-so-good” experience with leather hobbyists who do “work for hire”.  It’s understandable that this happens – as it takes time to get a handle on the art, the craft and most of all the materials necessary to make something from leather that not only looks good, but lasts.

There is no one course, no one YouTube video, no one book and no one person who will teach you what you need to know to be successful at leathercraft. Just as well, as far as I am concerned. But as we all have come to appreciate, a lack of knowledge doesn’t keep some people from venting their pie hole, now does it?

Recently I saw some leathercrafting ka-noodler, reference “stamping” as something that wasn’t as “genuine” as carving, he referenced to it as something for “amateurs”. I had to laugh, as both a carver and a stamper – I think that both have their place and are useful in different ways depending on the effect desired and the nature of the usage of the goods. Carving is when a swivel knife is used (for graphics or typography most often), stamping is when “patterned” stamps are used to create a design. They are completely different techniques, fish and fowl really. One is not better than the other ….except…

Carving is cutting -and leather is fibrous material. The more you cut leather, the more it weakens and doing this will make will make it more likely to come apart over time. Now a light touch certainly helps, but you really need to be careful when and how you use carving and the nature of the beveling technique you will use. For things that don’t get flexed alot, like motorcycle seats, carving works great. Peter Main and Christian Marsh are rockstar carvers, the best.   Those two have very easily identified styles and techniques -although totally different in every regard! If you are an IG’er check out El Mugroso, I like his carving too.

I don’t know of any rockstar stampers though, as its a tough way to express individuality. My aspiration is to be as good at stamping as the best carving talents are at their technique. I am on my way, I have achieved an easily identified style that seems to please, but I have very far to go -and its that journey of improvement I have a passion for, that self inflicted trek to “better”.

On things like wallets and belts – items you wear on your person that see constant flexing and dirt and moisture/sweat, I prefer to use stamping to decorate the materiel with a design, given a choice. Stamping compresses the fibers of the leather and does not violate the integrity of the skin, as cutting it does.  Stampingt doesn’t make it stronger, but it doesn’t weaken it as cutting does and it doesn’t break the top layer of the skin.

Stamping is a tough art to master. I liken it to my other passion, playing electric bass – it is easy to pick up and ka-noodle around – but to really put down a solid line, to create compelling designs with stamping, is tougher than it at first appears. I love stamping, it fits my brain function as where carving graphics – not so much – its much tougher for me to get my idea down exactly with carving, whereas stamping just feels natural to my spirit, its my thing.

Furthermore most of my stamps are not off the shelf tools., Same as with a musical instruments – there is a difference between Guitar Center product and a guitar made by a skilled luthier,  a Made in Mexico Jazz Bass, versus a Custom Shop version, if you will.  That’s not to say you can’t do some shitty work with good tools, but as you master the craft, every bit helps make the end result something you are proud of putting your name on.

All of this leads to my message – my work lasts and it looks good while its lasting. There is a reason I use the expensive cuts of leather I do, there is a reason I construct belts the time consuming way I do – and there is a reason my work costs what it does. Its not cheap, but it is a VALUE and it is utilitarian, it is comfortable and it is something people will notice.

So, know that there is a clear reason why my customers come back , its why they let me know after paying a premium price – that they are happy

Dig it, I got this (and the pics)  from Mark, (a customer I made two belts for, a few years back)  the other day, out of the blue… very nice!

Steve, I wear both belts (you made me) every single day, the one belt that is a tad narrower I wear with my suit, my suits are classic three piece   Saville Row style English suits and it looks great with them.  The other belt I wear when not at work with my jeans and it too looks great which is why I am going to order a third from you real soon, best,   Mark

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